Buying unstitched is the cheaper and more flexible way to dress, but only if you pick the right cloth for the season. The names on the listings — lawn, khaddar, dhanak, linen, wash-and-wear — describe weight and weave, not just price. Here is what each one is, and when to wear it.
Lawn
Lawn is a fine, lightly woven cotton. It is the lightest of the common suit fabrics, which is exactly why it rules the summer and why a lawn suit on a cold January morning is a mistake no matter how good the print is.
Because the weave is fine, lawn takes print beautifully, so the most detailed digital prints and embroidery usually arrive on lawn. If you are buying for next summer in the winter sales, lawn is the one to stock up on.
Khaddar
Khaddar is a thicker, slightly coarse cotton woven to hold warmth. It is the everyday winter fabric in most of Pakistan for good reason: it is warm enough for a Punjab winter, it is breathable, it takes dye well and it wears for years.
Two things to know. Khaddar shrinks a little on the first wash, so allow extra length when you give it to the tailor. And the surface softens with every wash, so a suit that feels rough in the packet will not feel rough by the third wearing.
Dhanak
Dhanak is a brushed, fleece-like fabric with a soft nap on one side. It is noticeably warmer than khaddar and much softer against the skin, which is why it is popular for women's winter suits and for anything a child will wear.
The trade-off is that dhanak is heavier and holds less structure, so it drapes rather than holds a crisp line. It also attracts lint, so keep it away from dark towels in the wash.
Linen
Linen here usually means a cotton-linen blend rather than pure linen. It sits between lawn and khaddar in weight, has a visible texture, and holds a press well. It works in the shoulder seasons — October and again in March — when lawn is too thin and khaddar is too much.
Linen creases. That is the nature of the fibre, not a fault in the cloth, and pressing is part of owning it.
Wash-and-wear
Wash-and-wear is a cotton-polyester blend made to resist creasing. It is the practical choice for anyone who does not want to press a suit every time, and it is the standard for men's shalwar kameez across the country.
It is less breathable than pure cotton, so it can feel warm in a crowded room, and it is better at hiding creases than at looking crisp. For daily wear in a working week, few fabrics are more sensible.
A quick comparison
- Coldest weather: dhanak, then khaddar
- Everyday winter: khaddar or wash-and-wear
- Shoulder seasons: linen
- Summer: lawn
- Least ironing: wash-and-wear
- Softest against the skin: dhanak
How much cloth to buy
A three-piece suit means shirt, trouser and dupatta cloth, and the metres are given on the listing. For a two-piece you are buying shirt and trouser only. Before you order, check the length given against what your tailor normally asks for, especially if you are tall — standard lengths suit an average height and a few extra inches is the difference between a comfortable shirt and a short one.
Not sure which one to pick
Tell us where you live and when you plan to wear it, and we will tell you which fabric suits. Message 0345 6650894 on WhatsApp before you order.
Browse unstitched suits, or read our guide on unstitched versus stitched if you are still deciding between the two.